A Brief Note on the Situation of Cashmere in Afghanistan
A Brief Note on the Situation of Cashmere in Afghanistan
Introduction
Afghanistan is an agricultural country where its population is directly or
indirectly engaged in Agricultural and Livestock rearing for their family support and livelihood. Cashmere fiber in local
language called Tibet and in central and western regions it is known as Kurk. Cashmere
spinning was a traditional handcraft for those who were residents of borderline
parts of Badakhshan. These farmers were busy in plait and sewing sweaters,
coats, gloves, etc. As the demand for cashmere products and weaving handicraft
marketing is improved, the farmers changed the meat-producing goats to cashmere-producing
goats.
Afghanistan is the third-largest cashmere-producing country in the world
after China and Magnolia, producing 1000 metric tons of cashmere annually. However,
it is important to mention that animal husbandry especially cashmere has been
not considered scientifically and technically as a valuable animal product in
Afghanistan. Besides, the farmers have been not aware of the benefits of cashmere
as an income source for their livelihood. The farmers often do not have the
necessary technical knowledge and equipment for processing the cashmere
including other animal products.
With the support of funding by Burberry
foundation with technical support of Oxfam/Novib, Pur Projet, PRB (Partners in
Revitalization and Building) implemented a series of activities at the field
level. Capacity building of farmer, improving the breed, improvement of
veterinary services, animal husbandry (goats’ distribution for breeding), the establishment
of Cashmere and other livestock
production associations, and marketing of cashmere but still, there is a need for proper management,
sheltering, production, breeding, and marketing capacity of the products.
Therefore, due to the lack of the above capacity, the farmers cannot maintain
the present capacity. To maintain the cashmere production capacity and make the
farmers self-reliant, sustain the program, manage the pasture and alleviate
hunger and poverty, PRB has the ability and expertise to train the farmers and
link the farmers with the market. With the recent change, the activities effectively
brought to a halt, and to continue, there is a need for refunding as requested
by the farmers.
Farmers generate 13-23 % of their income from
livestock to maintain their livelihood. A cow for a rural family is the biggest
supporter of their livelihood. Sheep and goats are traditionally kept to
support families’ consumption along with cattle, goats, providing the third
part of livestock having their advantages over other animals of the flock.
Goats have a small body and have the ability to adapt to different
environments, as well as the milk and meat production of goats has the best
quality than other animals. in Afghanistan goats produce 150 liters of milk
during one lactation period but in some developed countries, every goat
produces 700 liters during one lactation period. The size of an animal herd
directly belongs to the economic capacity of a farmer. Thus 5 to 6 goats are
kept with a cow to cover the routine family expenses. The goats can produce,
easy for rearing, women, and children can manage easily their shelter, feeding,
watering, milking and no need more professional equipment.
Research in 2008 indicates that only 30% of
the produced cashmere is harvested every year and 70% of farmers are not aware
of the value of cashmere. Whilst an
extensive awareness and training program has taken place nationally, (ASAP from
2008 to 2010)[1],
ongoing training and advice are required to incentivize harvesting and
encourage superior production methods. As the 3rd largest producer of cashmere
after China and Mongolia, Afghanistan has the potential to increase production
by up to 200-300%. Historically, for years the cashmere industry in Afghanistan
went undeveloped. Goats served as food; their hides were exported
but their fiber was shorn and spun to be woven into carpets and tents for local
and domestic use. There was no infrastructure in Afghanistan to clean and
process the fiber for spinning commercially. But there were many goats,
and some of the fiber was exported in its greasy form.
Afghanistan exports all of its cashmere in raw
(greasy) form. With the establishment of a new processing plant in Tritex in
Herat, it is estimated that approximately 30% of Afghan cashmere is now
exported in processed form (de-haired, scoured, or hand-spun), and 70% in raw
form. The opportunity for the sector is therefore to increase the volume of
cashmere entering the processing system and to improve the quality of cashmere
entering in domestic and export quality of markets to be more competitive
internationally. Key commercial drivers are to improve the access to the market
by strengthening herder-trainer, interactions, and export opportunities. Key
production drivers are to increase the volume of harvested cashmere, to improve
the quality of cashmere production, and to increase the volume of cashmere that
undergoes processing.
At the amount of 20,000
Kg processed cashmere exported by Tritex to Italy in 2020 from which 10,000 kg
was de-haired and 10,000 Kg was processed. The raw cashmere exported to China
in 2020 was 287,445 Kg as reported by the Quarantine Department of the
Provincial Agricultural Directorate of Herat. Raw cashmere exported to china
was 387,445 Kg in 2021.
Due to the frequent occurrence of drought in
Afghanistan, a large number of livestock adapted to the drought and most of the
farmers were unable to properly obtain the agricultural products as well due to
the drought. Goats are resistant to drought as well as to cold and moist
weather. Therefore, the goats may not be easily affected by drought.
[1] ACCELERATING SUSTAINABLE
AGRICULTURE PROJECT (ASAP), funded by USAID
For more information please check here
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